10 Things I Would Transport to Seoul

1.Aussie Hair Curl & Shine or Garnier Fructis Frizz Control
I have basically been shelling out about $20.00 a fortnight to keep my hair even marginally manageable since I've been here. Sure you can find products marked as "ethnic" but none of them really seem to suit my hair or manage frizz the way that these two did. The next time I go on a trip I will bring one suitcase strictly for hair products :)

2.Haggis- I miss Haggis so much and often when I'm sitting around drinking  whisky I sometimes think, wow I wish I had some Haggis, neeps and tatties. There really is nothing like it. Perhaps I will try to figure out a way to make my own

3.Victorias Secret Bras- I never really saw myself as a label whore before, but I miss VS! Bra sizes in Korea are actually getting bigger with the influx of Western teachers and the popularity of breast augmentation here in Seoul. Yet, I find the quality just isn't the same. I'd even settle for an Ann Summers at the moment!

4. Jeans for "shapely" butts! Okay, to be fair, I was warned that "shapely" women may have trouble finding jeans when they arrived. So why didn't I stock up like a mad women? Because I am a bleeding optimist! The first few weeks, I found a few pairs of stretch skinny jeans at forever21 that fit me perfectly;  but as the seasons and styles change it s getting a bit harder to fit my lady lumps into Korean style jeans.

5.French Onion Dip- I have searched far and wide for this stuff! Really it is probably better that I haven't found it, or I would have a one way ticket to Obese city. Many American products are available on the U.S military base, but it's a bit of a hassle to contact an army friend everytime you need something. For french onion dip...I might make an exception!

6.The Globe Bar in Edinburgh- Okay, so this isn't really a product, but it is my favorite little sports bar in the world. In addition to being the sponsor of my old rugby team, it was literally just around the corner from my flat. There are no shortage of sports pubs here in Seoul and many of them show the rugby matches as well as being frequented by local sports teams. still I dearly miss this bar, it's prices and the local characters that inhabit the place. If laying on my death bed I was asked "where do you want to go?" would my lips utter "the Globe bar?" Okay, maybe not, but it would be a close 2nd!

7.Bed Sheets- $50.00 for a fitted style double bed sheet? That's right. Bed sheets are a luxury in Korea, and as a result, they are often very, very pricey. I scan the sale racks at E-Mart, regularly snatching up whatever deals I can find. So far, I have added Nemo, Pororo and ugly Hawaiian print to my collection.

8. Homestyle Mac and Cheese- South Korea will never be the Mecca of cheesy goodness in the way that Wisconsin is, but is it really too much to ask for some mac and cheese? I have been in and out of Western style restaurants and I still can't find a delicious version of my favorite comfort food! My weekends have been reduced to crafting mac and cheese concoctions with whatever I can find at Happy Food Imports. So far, pretty decent, but I still miss that Wisconsin style!

9. HBO shows "Game of Thrones" and "Girls." Although it is easy to watch these online, I would be really interested to see what Koreans would make of them. My co-teacher and I have had numerous conversation about my favorite movies and shows. So far I think my co-teacher is convinced that I only watch ESPN and shows about drug addiction...what a shining example I am for the students. Although, on second thought,would either of these shows give me a better representation?

10. My best friend Felicia. Again, Felicia really isn't a thing, she's a person but she's definitely my better half. She is 80% of all my crazy travel stories, a member of "The Yanks" and the better half of Fushe & Moom. I met her in 2009 and was basically inseperable from her until I left Edinburgh last January. I looked up Kilts with her in Scotland, ran from stalkers in Morocco, had food mishaps in France, drank too much port with her in Portugal, she helped me chase a mugger in spain, got blazed with her in Amsterdam and made poor life decisions with her in England. She has been a huge part of my travel experience so far and hopefully will be again in the near future.


P.S It should be noted that my mother would be included on this list, but she hates traveling. Therefore I have decided she can stay put :)

How Korea Has Changed Me

1. I am always bowing- When you greet someone or meet someone for the first time, you bow and say hello. In school I am constantly bowing, the deeper the bow the greater the respect. In fact, last week I got nervous when I saw the principal, went to bow and smashed my head on the wall. I will probably bow a bit even when I'm not in Korea, just as a habit now. My students are bowing machines, if they see me at school or on the street they stop whatever they are doing, respectfully bow and go on their merry way. It took some getting used to, but now it's normal for me.

2. I accept things from my co-teachers with two hands. Out of habit, if someone hands me a paper I will extend one hand to take it. Not in Korea, I put both hands on the document/gift/payslip and bow my head. I have found myself grabbing samples in the grocery store with two hands, it looks silly, but its a bit programed in me now.

3.I brush my teeth at random intervals of the day, this may have something to do with the amount of spicy, pungent Kimchi I consume. I still haven't been able to bring myself to floss in public, like many Koreans, but I join my fellow teachers and my students, right after lunch for a personal grooming session.

4. I stand up for myself much more that I used to. I was never a push over, but Korea has taught me to pick and choose my battles and to develop a backbone when I need to. I even confront  Ahjussi's who violently shove me on the subway! I can take a little pushing, but occasionally someone steps out of line and I have to put them back in check. My students taught me how to say "do you want to die" when someone is behaving horribly and so far it has served me nicely.

5. I get shit done! I did a lot of winging and complaining before (which I still do) when something goes wrong. But in Korea, I have to be prepared for anything to happen and when it does I put on my big girl pants and fix it. I feel I was very dependent before on my parents or the people I was living with in Scotland, but now that I live alone, I really had to grow up! For example- my shower pipe tubing burst in my bathroom the other day ( I admit I cried a little bit) but in the end, I found some silicone sealant and fixed it on my own. It may not seem like a big deal, but for me it was a bit of a symbol that I can take care of myself and problems when they arise.

6. I throw up the peace sign like it's my job. At home we had a joke about asian tourists and their love for the peace sign, but I never knew how true it was until I started living in Korea. 90% of my photos feature the peace sign. I have no shame.

7. I enjoy spending time alone. I always used to feel bored when I was by myself. Korea is my first time truly living on my own without family or a flatmate/roomate. It is scary sometimes when I hear strange noises and I can't just run into Felicia's room for a complaining session, but I am starting to really value the peace that comes from solitude. I am getting to know myself, on my own terms, and I think that's really important!

8. I accept challenges. Anyone who knows me, knows there isn't much that I am afraid of, but Korea is a whole new territory for me. I am constantly being exposed to opinions I will NEVER agree with, foods I am terrified of and traditions I just don't understand. When traveling, a person will encounter a certain amount of adversity as is, but living here has been a wonderful challenge. I have become more patient, accepting and understanding of things that I don't comprehend or always agree with and it has really made me a better person.

9.No drama (well almost). I used to be eager to help people solve their issues or to comment on situations that were none of my business. I never had the intention of creating issues, but sometimes that backfired. The ESL teaching community here is much smaller than you would know. I have taken a step back and realized that I don't always need to have an opinion. There are times to pick and choose your battles and more often than not, I don't get involved. This has made me happier, healthier and just overall contributed to my positive experience here in Korea.

10. I have learned to love myself. Being in Korea, I stand out on a daily basis. Not just because I am not Korean, but because I am not a typical ideal of beauty here. I am bigger, I have muscles, thighs and a  butt. I see constant comparisons to K-Pop stars and my student's ideals of thin beauty. I expected this to negatively affect the way I see myself, but instead I am taking comfort in the fact that I am different. This is the most confident I have ever felt in my entire life and my sense of harmony shows on the outside. I smile more,  glow and I genuinely feel good about who I am for the first time in a very long time.

Maggie Moo's Travel Playlist

Some old, some new, some downright embarrassing, but all of them are getting me through the next month, while I wait for the big trip! February 11th vacay! Can't wait!

"If I Could Go"- Angie Martinez
 If I can choose a place to go it's gotta be far away.
 From here we could crossover like Hardaway
Somewhere outside the states where tomorrow's like today.

"So Good"- B.O.B
Suffering from first class cabin fever,
five hour layovers from Norway to Egypt. 
I'm too the point like the Pyramids of Giza
still lean to the left like the tower out in Pisa.

"Let's Go" -Calvin Harris and Ne-Yo
it's all about what you're doing, 
it's all about where you're going. 
No matter where you've been, let's go!

"Tokyo (Vampires and Wolves)"-  The Wombats
If you love me let me go
Back to that bar in Tokyo
Where the demons from my past
Leave me in peace
I'll be animating every night
The grass will be greener on the other side


"Frankie's Gun"- The Felice Brothers
My car goes-Chicago
Every weekend to pick up some cargo
I think I know the bloody way by now, Frankie
And turn the god damn radio down, thank you
Pull over-Count the money
But don't count the thirty in the glove box buddy


"Golden Girl"- Frank Ocean Ft. Tyler the Creator
Two mopeds racin through the forest
Making dirt clouds on a path, on a path
I'm my best on this island, I'm a mess in America
My flight left last night
But, I know I'm not goin back home

"I Was Here"- Beyonce
I was hereI lived, I lovedI was hereI did, I've done, everything that I wantedAnd it was more than I thought it would be

"Mountains"- Biffy Clyro
Took a bite out of a mountain range
Thought my teeth would break the mountain dead
Let's go, I wanna go all the way to the horizon

"Young Forever"- Jay-Z Ft. Mr. Hudson
So we live a life like a video
When the sun is always out and you never get old
And the champagne’s always cold
And the music is always good
And the pretty girls just happen to stop by in the hood

"Summer Sucks" (Cruel Summer Remix)- BLESTeNation
Now we all know summertime is a bummer with no duckets.
The one time you can just sit...Right there.
No school to not go to and skip.

"California"- The Kooks (Mason Jennings Cover)
I miss the ocean when I go sleep
Oh man, it's gonna break my heart

"Seaside"-The Kooks
Do you want to go to the seaside?
I'm not trying to say that everybody wants to go
I fell in love at the seaside
I handled my charm with time and slight of hand


"Wagon Wheel"-Old Crow Medicine Show
So rock me mama like a wagon wheel
Rock me mama anyway you feel
Hey mama rock me
Rock me mama like the wind and the rain
Rock me mama like a south-bound train

"Jackson"- Johnny Cash & June Carter
We got married in a fever, hotter than a pepper sprout,
We've been talkin' 'bout Jackson, ever since the fire went out.
I'm goin' to Jackson, I'm gonna mess around,
Yeah, I'm goin' to Jackson,
Look out Jackson town.


Honorable Mention: UB40 Red, Red Wine...but the truth is that song is on every playlist I make!

Another Manic Meme Monday

When one of my students says something sassy in English....



When my co-teacher tries to set me up with one of the weird teachers...



When my co-teacher told me they leave the windows open in the winter to "get rid of germs"


When I see my kids putting sugar on garlic bread.....


When Korean women judge me for wearing sweatpants & air force ones in a fashionable store...


When one of my students tells me I look like Beyonce....

One Night in Bangkok:Planning My Sweet Vacation!

The reality of "deskwarming" is that I spend very little time actually being warm.  It's freezing and instead of planning my lessons, I find myself planning my big trip for February vacation. Heres the plan so far:

Bangkok, Vientiane, Hanoi!

I am super excited for some quality time with my good friend Angelique, in Southeast Asia. From Seoul, it is pretty simple to find cheap flights on both Skyscanner and AirAsia. When I first began my search (about two months ago) there were round trip flights from Seoul, going for around $350.00. The closer it got to vacation (and the more people book-many epik folks have this time off) the more expensive it got. Fortunately, my mom got me an awesome birthday present and paid for my trip!

Initially we wanted to attempt all to get to Cambodia as well, but with the time we would spend actually traveling, it seemed a bit tiring even for us! So in the end we decided on 4 days in Bangkok, a flight to Udon Thai and then a bus across the border into Vientiane.

3 1/2 days in Vientiane and this is where details get a bit foggy....but it's looking like the 24 hour bus "from hell" as they like to call it, into Hanoi in Vietnam. Shouldn't be so bad with Angel there we always manage to keep ourselves entertained and I plan on making a list of "challenges" for the journey.

After we reach Hanoi we will spend a few days trekking around Vietnam, frequenting happy hour, eating pho and then make out way back to Bangkok. At the moment it looks very possible that we can find a fairly cheap flight back into Bangkok to enjoy the end of our weekend and vacation.

A few things I want to do:
1. Ride a motorbike in Hanoi

2. Temple Hop in Vientiane

3. Take a Muay Thai lesson in Bangkok

4. Eat as much Pho as humanly possible, in Vietnam

5. Dine for a cause at a local Makphet in Laos. Makphets offer hands on cooking experience to marginalized youth and the dishes look yummy!

6. Get a Thai massage

Yep, nice and rough. Haha

7. Take a day trip from Hanoi to Halong Bay and get a junk boat!

and depending on how daring I feel.....

8. Get my bungee jump on in Thailand!

A Trip to the "lady doctor"

Men...you can avert your eyes and ears now! After many emails/messages about birth control and women's clinics I have finally decided to post this. All in all not a bad experience...even if I did run into a few of my students!! Oh the horror!

Medi Flower OB/GYN 
Tel: 02-548-9400 (Korean) 010-8550-9742 (English) 02-548-9401
eunsook.ella.han@gmail.com
2nd Floor, Lotte Castle Medici, 1656-4 Seocho-dongSeocho-gu, Seoul137-070


check out their website

Not sucking at life and other 2013 resolutions

The standard new years face!

2013 is finally here! I have decided it is a great time to reflect on 2012 (which was an excellent year) in hopes of making 2013 even more epic. I usually don't like making resolutions, but 2013 just seems so worthy! Here goes nothing:

1) Travel to at least 8 countries (Thailand, Laos and Vietnam, shall be ticked off come february).

2) Get fit, I don't want to lose weight, but I definitely want to get back in my prime rugby playing shape- maybe Captain America will make a reappearance!

obvious toolbaggery aside, my abs were pretty dang spiffy

3) Go to at least 2 rugby tournaments (hopefully 3 if I can go to Hong Kong 7's, Tokyo 7's and the Lions tours in June)
4) Work much harder on my Korean Language skills and not just for purposes of ordering food or hitting on attractive Korean gym trainers.
5) Take up a new activity: maybe something physical/aggressive like Muay Thai, kickboxing or some form of martial arts where I can re-affirm, just how clumsy and uncoordinated I am.
6)Explore the Buddhist offerings in Seoul and get my chill on.
7) Complete my lesson plans far in advance so I have some time to rest, stress free during the week.
8) Just being generally more positive and optimistic about all of the wonderful opportunities I have and all of the people in my life
9) To do some more freelance work, make regular submissions and get some more pieces published for my writing portfolio.
10) To never take myself so seriously and to just enjoy the shenanary that is my life!

2012 was a pretty crazy year!
-My purse was stolen in Scotland a few days before I arrived in Korea, but I still managed to make it.
-I had my first real big kid job working in tourism and had my first guide published
-I left my favorite city in the world (Edinburgh) and moved to South Korea
-I got mono!!
-I managed to tear/damage both of my calves just at the end of rugby season (healing nicely)
-I saw Psy live in concert
-I did my first rugby zulu!
-played for 3 different women's rugby teams and officially earned the title "utility"
-graduated from TEFL academy with honors
-Barack Obama was re-elected
-there were 3 huge mass shootings in the U.S
-more natural disasters than I can count
-many more states passed gay rights laws
-North Korea...well...they were being North Korea
- and I decided I was going to see as much of the world as I possibly could!

2013 is going to be my best year yet, I can feel it. I resolve, after this year, to never win another game of "never have I ever" again.