Maggie Moo Does Seoul Restaurants

Being in South Korea is amazing, but living in Seoul, particularly has it's advantages. There are so many great restaurants here from all over the world, which got me thinking about my love of making lists. So here goes nothing, my four favorites:

1. Braai Republic is a South African restaurant located in Itaewon. The atmosphere is cozy and warm and rugby fans will be happy to know that they can always catch some Springboks and various other rugby action there. Although I am not South African, I have been told it is quite authentic. I can't vouch for that, but I can say it is one of the most delicious restaurants in Korea. The menu is pretty fantastic and anyone looking for some hearty food is definitely in for a treat. They make amazing meat pies and sausages as well as spectacular sunday lamb shanks. If you are really nice the owner, Roddy, might even make you an amarula cocktail with ice cream called a "Dom Pedro." 

Sunday Lamb Roast

2. Tucan is a Brazilian/Caribbean fusion restaurant located near Noksapyeong station. I am a massive jerk chicken fan and as a result I am pretty hyper critical of all Caribbean food that I try, but I must say Tucan is the real deal. The owners (although both Korean) lived abroad and perfected their technique, which you can definitely taste. The chicken is moist and very succulent and the spices are just perfect. The red beans and rice are a must try side dish!

Jerk chicken and orange chicken with home made potato chips

3. Hakata is a Japanese Ramen restaurant located in Hongdae. Although rather small, constantly packed and tricky to find, it is worth the wait. The pork literally falls apart in your mouth and the soup is heavenly, prepared by hand in front of you. With meals ranging from 5,000-10,000 won you are definitely getting the bang for your buck! Don't be surprised if you arrive to a club like queue of people waiting to get inside...yeah, it's that good!

4. Zelen Bulgarian Restuarant  Five Words: Om Nom Nom Nom Nom! Honestly, if you aren't reduced to being a babbling fool, incapable of describing this restuarants greatness, then you have no taste buds. I had never eaten Bulgarian food before heading to Zelen for a friends birthday and now that I have I'm kicking myself for not trying it sooner. Zelen's menu is a bit pricier than the other restaurants I have mentioned, but it is well worth every penny! The atmosphere is stunning, the staff are great and the food...honestly...there are no words!

Bulgarian Spinach Cream Chicken

A few more must trys: Marakech Nights, African Heritage Restaurant and Buddha's Belly!

Lessons I Learn from My Students: Boston Response

I woke up this morning to the news that the Boston Marathon had been bombed. I remembered friends and family who were participating in the races and my heart just dropped. It seemed very surreal and I wanted to call into work, head down to the embassy and wait for a bit of news. Then, I remembered I had a few students who had family and friends in Boston as well. I thought maybe I should go in and see if they needed any support or just someone to listen.

I didn't understand the full capacity of what had happened until I came into school and hopped on CNN and BBC. I saw a few of my students and asked them if they'd heard the news. I watched as they stared at the footage, eyes widening every time another blast was heard. They looked horrified and one pulled out her cell phone and immediately began dialing her family in the states, while others used "Google person search" to locate their loved ones. One student just kept saying "I don't understand, why did this happen, who would do this." I was at a total loss for words. I left the room briefly to calm down an upset student and when I came back I was amazed with what I saw.

A group of my students, many of whom have a very low English level and certainly were not fully aware of what happened, were praying. They had taken the worried Americans, held their hands and calmed them down. I immediately felt safe and surrounded by warmth and positivity. "Is teacher Maggie worried" they asked, motioning me over to their prayer circle. Their capacity to love one another, unconditionally and support each other in the midst of things that I can't explain, astounds me. Regularly, I hope that I am making an impact on them, not realizing they are the ones who continually impact and inspire me with their strength, compassion and courage.

A few thoughts on North Korea....

Sorry, the sound is a bit off.

This Week: My life in meme form

When the staff are fighting and they ask me where I was....


Walking through the hallway after a particularly bad class...


When one of my student's says "teacher needs to diet" and I'm all- bitch please....


When my smallest student says she's on a diet.....


Trying to be cool, texting and walking down stairs at school....


When my students ask me how I am on a bad day....


When my principal starts talking at me in very fast Korean during lunch...


How I feel every time someone asks me if North Korea is going to bomb us....


How I feel when one of my new students challenges me....

Itaewon: Why I love it

It seems to be a very common theme among foreigners in Korea, to believe that those who spend time in Itaewon, simply do not appreciate Korea or Korean culture. This is due to the influx of Western restaurants and bars and the percentage of the foreign population. I have been told on numerous occasions that places like Hongdae and Gangnam are far superior, and here is my rebuttal.

Forget the fact that I can finally find jeans that fit my butt, the fact that there is a Nike outlet, shoes in my size, a Ben's cookie tempting me so close to the station, forget it's central location, the friendly buskers, the endless rows of clothing and accessory stalls, the man playing church music with the giant 666 sign, the gold country prints, the flags, the crowded sidewalks...forget all this. But why? And should we?

Being raised in a multicultural and diverse family, both racially and religiously, has made me appreciate and even crave multiculturalism in all forms. I grew up eating food from all over the world, with a group of friends more diverse than a crayola special edition pack. When I arrived in Korea, I had my first real culture shock at seeing how  homogeneous everything was. To say I stood out in my neighborhood, would be an understatement. Sure, it has it's advantages (the attention), but it can also feel a bit isolating at times. Particularly in weeks where I'm not hanging out with the other Waygook teachers.

Then, with a little help from my rugby team, I discovered Itaewon. From the second I set foot in that place, I knew I wanted to spend a considerable amount of time there. Sure, it has had it's share of bad press in the past few years (military and general drunken foreigner shenanary) but we must understand that any area so populated with people from all over the world is going to have it's conflicts and misunderstandings. In the past few months, I have made  friends with some wonderful folks in the military and can honestly say that I feel bad for a reputation that quite often (unfairly) follows them wherever they go. But I digress.

Many people say that Itaewon is used as an escape for teachers who want to get away with learning minimal Korean and nothing substantial about the culture.While it is true that you will be hard pressed to find a person who cannot speak English in Itaewon, it also lends itself to an opportunity to experience a wonderful fusion of language and culture. There are a considerable amount of Koreans who spend time in Itaewon, many of whom I have befriended and learned much about. I find that they are just as eager as I am to learn about other cultures and this begins a glorious exchange. I love passing an Irish bar, followed by a Middle eastern restaurant and a Brazilian steakhouse. I feel proud when I look up at the mosque, just feet from traditional Korean dining and around the corner from an African restaurant that boasts the most delicious plantains. This mismatch, this melting pot, this collection of cultural anomalies stuck smack dab in the middle of such a  homogeneous country is pure brilliance; it's beautiful even. Seeing so many unidentifiable people from all over the world sharing one space is harmonious. Meeting people from India, Pakistan, Russia, America, Japan,Korea,Egypt, Turkey, Thailand, Canada (the list goes on) is inspiring.

While Itaewon is not without it's own problems and it can be a bit strange. I am so proud to be part of that bizarre collection of people that make Itaewon just what it is.

Dinner at Marakech Nights

BSSK get together at African Heritage Restuarant

Rugby Social at Dickens

Election day in Wolfhound's Irish Pub

Conversations with drunk Korean men.....

Every time I go out, I run into very interesting Korean men. I swear there is never a dull moment.This may be one of the main reasons I don't do much dating in Korea. Here is a sample:

Scenario 1
Korean Man: Hey
Me: Hello
Korean Man: You are a good dancer.
Me: Oh, thank you.
*awkward silence*
Korean Man: You dance good.
Me: Thanks! Yep. I like to dance.
Korean Man: Yes, it is good.
*says something in Korean*
Me: Oh, sorry. My Korean is not very good
*says something else in Korean*
Korean Man: Sorry, my English is very little.
Me: Okay
Korean Man: You are pretty.
Me: Thank you
Korean Man: I like your hair
Me: thank you.
*touches my hair awkwardly and gets hand stuck in it*
Korean Man: Hair is good.
*awkward silence*
(Korean man slowly wanders away)

Scenario 2
(Drunk Korean man runs up and kisses me)
Korean Man: You so sexy
Me: Uh....
(attempts to lick my face as I duck out of the way)
Korean man: Wooooooooooooooo!
(He runs away and probably passes out)

Scenario 3
Korean Man: Hey. Where are you from?
Me: I'm from America.
Korean Man: (looks confused) But, where are you from original?
Me: America
Korean Man: You are from Spain, yes?
Me: No. My dad is black and my mom is white
Korean Man: Oh, that's cool. I like black people.
Me: Cool.
Korean Man: You like Korean men?
Me: Yeah.
Korean Man: You teach me how to dance?
Me: Uh....I guess
*start dancing*
Korean Man: You black, you teach me how to dougie.

Scenario 4
Korean Man: Yo baby.
(I look around, hoping he is not talking to me)
Korean Man:Hey baby.
(his friend repeatedly apologizes for him and attempts to take him away.
Korean Man: I like your body. You are woman.
Me: Um, thanks I guess.
Korean Man: Korean woman is thin. You are womanly. I like.
Me: uh, cool....

Scenario 5
Korean Man: Very beautiful
Me: Oh,thank you.
Korean Man: Can I get you a drink?
Me: Sure
(he extends hand across the bar and I see a wedding ring)
Korean Man: You want to leave here with me?
Me: Are you married?
Korean Man: I pay.

Scenario 6:
Korean Man: Hello
Me: Hello
Korean Man: You ever had Korean lover?
Me: Umm....no.
Korean Man: You are racist.
Me: Me? What? No.
Korean Man: Good. You come home with me.

Hong Kong 7's: A Photo Essay

Sorry! Long time, no post! I have just been catching up on a few articles I am writing for partner blogs and organizations. In the mean time I hope this shall tide you over. I went to the Hong Kong rugby 7's with some friends last weekend and it was completely mental. It is something I've wanted to do since I was a kid, so finally getting a chance to go was very surreal. My ticket was pretty cheap $329 round trip on cheapoair leaving Friday and returning Monday night! Next time I will definitely leave on a Thursday.  

This year I stayed in the Island Pacific Hotel

Tickets for the sevens cost about $300 USD (for two days)...much different than what I was used to paying for 7's in Scotland!

My costume!

Headed to the 7's with some mates from Seoul :)

Randomly bumped into an old friend from Australia

Dared the Jamaican team to jump up in the stands and take a picture with us. They kindly obliged.

posed with Nat and the Cathay Pacific Rugby Women from the advert

Happy Valley Tent: Ran into the man, the myth, the legend-himself. USA Rugby Captain Todd Clever

Could not get enough of all of the costumes after the 7's

where the carnage began....

Hong Kong is just full of characters! Gotta love this guy!

Team Zimbabwe was just amazing! We bumped into them in Wan Chai

Sweet street in Lan Kwai Fong- The Party district. It is packed with wall to wall bars and restaurants and a seemingly never ending street party!

Later that night, I bumped into a few All Blacks who I thoroughly insulted by insinuating that I could teach them how to offload. Fortunately, they took it quite well and I had some excellent drinking buddies for the rest of the evening. 

This trip was nothing short of amazing!

and a big congrats to the winners- Team Fiji!!

 There is plenty more, but as the saying goes....what happens in Hong Kong......

I cannot wait for next year!