There's Always One Student

Warning: Super Angsty Ranting Emotional Entry

I observed a few of my  fellow teachers classes today, just to get a feeling for the student dynamic. It's like the second I started teaching I forgot what it felt like to be a kid, particularly a 16 year old kid. Two girls walked into the classroom twenty minutes late, both of them beautiful, but one in particular incredibly disarming and perhaps even a bit mysterious. They talked through the whole class, put their feet up, texted- you know typical teen rebellion bullshit, but that's not what I noticed. I found myself getting a bit angry, upset that the teacher hadn't stopped them and upset that they seemed to set the whole mood of the class. The one in the particular, held up her hand mirror, fixed her hair and put on a coat of lipstick. She looked dead at me; the first direct challenge I have ever been given by a student. What I saw was a wildness I haven't seen in a very long time. Something I used to do. I saw a bit of myself in her and I felt guilty for immediately thinking of punishment. I crossed out my notes about discipline. I can tell my normal methods won't work, especially since her English level is very low.

She left the school temporarily last year when she got pregnant and gave away the child.Basically unheard of in Korea, although quite common in the U.S. Since she's returned, the teachers dislike her, she acts up all the time,the kids are afraid of her and I find her impossibly interesting and terribly sad. I always tell myself to stop taking my work home with me, but I have a feeling she will be my motivation to learn Korean much faster than I thought I could. I am going to understand this girl if it kills me.

Shopping in Korea

Anyanghaseyo All!

Where is the night market?

As if my life wasn't already a comedy of errors, shopping here is downright hysterical! First, let me just say if you are an avid shopper Seoul is the city for you! There are night markets available for all of your late night fashion needs, some of which don't open until 10:00 pm. Now, in the U.S I'd like to think I'm an excellent shopper. I hit the sale rack, find something cute and I can be in and out in a half an hour or less. In Seoul? Not so much.

When I first arrived I managed to destroy a few pairs of shoes in the lovely typhoon weather, because honestly everyone must wear oxfords in a downpour. Shoe shopping was a fantastic practice mime session. For some reason the second anyone speaks Korean to me, every word I've learned goes out the window and I become a bumbling mess! It's frustrating because I've practiced!  이거 얼마예요? [Igeo Eolmayeyo? or How much is this, is something everyone should know. Instead, I stand their pointing at the object, smiling ever so slightly, before turning bright red and having the Korean woman at the counter giggle and type the amount into a calculator that she waves in front of my face.

"Oh, only 10,000 won" I exclaim (roughly $8.80). And in perfectly clear English she says "and we carry your big size.Are you a 250?" "Yes, I am," I say. A size 8. She smiles, shoves the shoes in the bag and sends me on my way.

If only all of my shopping had been so simple. My next stop was E-Mart, the Korean equivalent of Walmart, but much more trendy and with more free samples!Trying to enter the store was already a bit of a maze and being one of the only foreigners all eyes are on me as I slowly make my way in through the exit door. The security gaurd is polite and welcomes me to the store. She says something in Korean, which I can only presume is "can I help you with anything." The lost puppy look seems to be universal. I smile and mime out a shopping cart and she produces one quickly, like an NYC street magician. I nod and manage to stammer out kamsahamnida (thank you). She seems satisfied with my attempt.

The days trip is to finally find some sheets for my bed, so I can stop living A La Trainspotting! Now I've heard that Western bedding can be expensive, but there is no way I was prepared for the prices I found. One fitted sheet averaged 54,000 Won. I frantically scanned the sheleves for something less, before coming across a hideous red and orange Island print fitted sheet. I shook the package hoping it contained a flat sheet and some pillow cases as Korean shopping is always full of surprises.After realizing I have been in the same section for literally an hour and a half I begin snatching mismatch bedding from the shelves and make my way to the home decoration section. It is a battle to fit my cart down the aisle and I can't help but feel like I am being challenged by the folks in the store. I stop to grab some batteries and someone pushes their cart right in front of where I am standing and begins slowly searching the rack. It takes me a while to realize that people here aren't doing it intentionally they are just not as self aware as the shoppers I have met in the U.S. I squeeze my way between the carts and shimmy over to the batteries. There are so many selections. I reach for one and a woman taps my hand. She hands me a different package "these better" she says and smiles. I thank her and race or the front.

The checkout line seemed mildly less daunting, until the woman at the checkout scanned a few items and set them aside. "Oh, I'd like those" I said. She made an "x" with her hand and mumbled something quickly in Korean. "No, but I want those" I exclaimed. Again, she made an "x" and it was clear I was not going to get them. The total read "80,000 won" and I went to place my card in the machine" "Anio" she yelled. "Uh, I don't understand" Again, I tried to place the card in the machine. She ran around the front of the register in a hurry, I imagine if she had been in the Olympics she would have cleared it, no problem. "give your card" she said, snatching it from my hands and giving me a cool smile. Apparently she needed to run it herself. I started to enter my pin and she smacked my hands "no type" she said and printed a reciept, waving me out the door. Next time, I think I'll pay in cash!

My First Week in Seoul

I don't even know where begin, so I think I'll try making a list. My first week in Seoul has been crazy and definitely memorable.

1. I rode on the back of a motorcycle in downtown Seoul.
2. I discovered that Burger King is not only edible here, it's delicious
3. I had a bucket of water thrown on me and was consequently saved by a cute Korean man (see number 1)
4. I tried intestines (not bad and very spicy).
5. Almost got in a fight with a Samoan man outside of a bar
6. Met the majority of the kids I will be teaching
7. Broke up 3 fights at school
8. Went out to dinner with my co-workers and was taught how to properly hold chopsticks (even though I'm still terrible).
9.Bought my first Guinness in Asia.
10. Managed to finally stop getting lost on the subway.
11. lived alone for the first time ever.
12. started creating lesson plans for my first week
13. Went out in Gangnam.
14. Survived my first rush hour subway sausage packing.
15. Managed to make my very stern and solemn security gaurd smile.
16. Stayed out until 6 A.M and drank soju on a roof top.
17. Took the longest taxi ride of my life!
18. Ate my weight in Paris Bagutte
19. Purchased a phone.
20. Made my apartment semi presentable
21. Managed to find a few hair products that don't make me look too Rachett out here in this heat!
22. Danced my ass off to Gangnam style.
23. Ate a whole tub of Kimchi.
24. Coached my first rugby training.
25. Opened up a bank account and got a debit card.
26. Set up an ARC appointment.
28.Spent over an hour trying to figure out how to buy sheets in E-Mart
29.Found an amazing little chicken & beer shop that I will frequent!
30.Wandered around the city in the rain.
31. Went to a hipster party in a warehouse where sausages cost $6.00

My First Anti-Foreigner Run In

Last night, after dinner I decided to take a walk around Seoul to buy a few things and hopefully find some bed sheets. No success with the bed sheets, but I did find some hair products for curly hair and was handed loads of sample beauty products, just for purchasing some conditioner.

I was getting a bit tired but I figured I'd walk further just see what the night time shopping was like. It was so odd seeing people going in and out of fashion stores at 9pm. I walked until I got to an area of Seoul where there weren't many stores, but rather loads and load of street food carts. I stopped to dig out my map and realized I'd forgotten it, which is fine, I'm horrible with maps as it is. I walked past a street cart where an old man was cleaning his grill. He glared at me the whole time, his eyes never leaving me. He didn't seem curious about me, but very displeased. I smiled and kept walking.

Suddenly I felt a splash of warm water on my back.  He had thrown the bucket he was using to clean his grill on me and the men standing around him were laughing. This was one of those moments where I was entirely too conflicted about what to do. I stood still for a moment and it took everything in my body not to hit that man. I walked up to him slowly, looked him dead in the eyes and told him he should be very careful about being disrespectful to people he doesn't know. I raised my voice, even though I knew he had no idea what I was saying. I wanted to make him understand.

Right before anything escalasted too much, a young man came running from across the street and began yelling at him. The older man conceded and walked away. Turns out the the young man spoke English and was studying at Universty in Seoul. He apologized and said the man was prejudice, put his arms around me and walked me away from the area.He said I had been in a pretty dodgy part of Seoul. I thanked him, wrung out my shirt (which was white and a bit see through at this point) and he gave me his phone number along with his zip up to walk home in. In moments of frustration it is so comforting to meet such nice people. My exerience in Korea, with the exception of this incident, has been so positive that I have to remain optimistic.

First Day at School

Today was my first full day in the middle school, although I don't begin teaching until September 10th. Instead, I will be lesson planning and sitting in on a few classes. Walking through the hallways was a very different experience. Students saw me and stared, some giggled, other bowed and said hello and  a few even practiced their English. My favorite was "you look like Beyonce" hahah! I met the rest of the staff and they all seemed quite nice, although I am quickly realizing I really need to learn Korean beyond the few words that I know. Most of my conversations consist of me smiling and my co-teacher translating. Meeting the principal was quite scary at first. He called me and my co-teacher into the office and asked us to sit down. He looked at me and spoke in Korean as my co-teacher laughed and repeated it back to me. Apparently he loves baseball and he wanted to know which team was my favorite. I quickly replied.."uh, the Brewers" he smiled, clapped and said "ah, yes Milwaukee, very good" We will get along well." He said his dream was to go to Penn Park and asked me about "the great Bambino." I must say my baseball knowledge leaves something to be desired. Perhaps the funniest aspect of the meeting was the fact that even when he used the few words he knew in English, like "welcome" and "very good" my co-teacher made sure to repeat them right after he had said them. I was quite happy with the way the meeting went.

After school I was invited to a "staff meeting," which turned out to be dinner at a restaurant. It was "Korean Bacon" and it was delicious, despite the fact that I am terrible with chop sticks. Everyone, and I literally mean everyone, waited for me to take a bite. Do you know how awkward it is to eat a big, huge greasy piece of bacon, with chopsticks you barely know how to use in front of 25 people? Some of them even moved their mouths are a sort of instruction for how I should chew.I struggled a bit and finally speared the bacon and awkwardly tossed it in my mouth, throwing my fists in the air! Victorious and it was delicious. Everyone nodded and clapped and then began ordering drinks. My principal staggered to the front and began to make a speech. This is how it sounded to me "jsdjajoiorir Maggie Smith-Su jsjojpojorjorje Rugby oiorioiroriqwri African oprjqorjirqirq Irish poqiwejwe Maggie Smith- Harry Potter ikowierei Oh yes kqweieiepopeo Welcome jqwejwejowej Soju. So really, I believe I understood all of the key points :) The speech took about a minute and a half and I just stood there with a big awkward grin plastered on my face, nodding at each person who made eye contact.

Next my principal came over and said "beer, you like?" I nodded, maybe a bit too eagerly and he smiled. He handed me a glass and poured my beer, then he asked me to pour his. I remembered something about pouring with two hands and I was grateful not to have spilled all over him. He said "Cheers to our middle school" and downed it in one. If I ever need an international drinking team partner, I would totally ask my principal to take the job. He then placed a bottle of soju in the middle of the table and gingerly danced away.

Meet your co-teacher...in a typhoon!

We arrived in Seoul this morning in the middle of a typhoon and I finally met my co-teacher! I bowed and said Anyong Haseyo(sp) in Korean like I had been told to do. She smiled and gave me a big hug. I was quite surprised as it seemed like such a Western thing to do. We spent an awkward few minutes just smiling at each other and trying to figure out what to do with my suitcases. She answered the phone, said a few things in Korean that I couldn't understand and a very nice car came roaring around the corner. An older woman jumped out, gave me a hug and said "Welcome to Korea," another one of my co-teachers and a very friendly woman. They followed me down the steps in the pre-typhoon weather holding an umbrella over my head. When we got to the trunk it was quite clear that my suitcase might not fit. They smiled, giggled and began furiously re-arranging the trunk. In two minutes I was all packed up and ready to go. She leaned over and said I made you lunch! It was a bag of baked potatoes and a bag of grapes. I smiled at the gesture.

When I arrived at my apartment I was surprised by how nice it was! I will be living in an officetel. I looked around and it seemed to have everything- a table and chairs with a bouquet of roses,a fridge stocked with beer, microwave, rice cooker, stove, washing machine, shower separate from the rest of the bathroom....just one thing missing....a bed! My co-teacher told me I would be staying with her for the night, so I grabbed some things and took the subway 40 minutes out to her place. When we arrived I was a bit anxious about meeting her mother. Again, I bowed and said hello. She ran over and gave me a big hug. She spoke very little English but her smile was so bright. They gave me a mattress pad, led me to my room and let me rest for a while. I had casually mentioned to my co-teacher that I loved Indian food. When I woke up she had made me an amazing Indian curry with loads of sides and lots of dessert. To say I was humbled, would be an understatement.

I was so surprised to have someone be so kind upon first meeting me, particularly because I felt like I might be a bit of a burden. We sat around for a few hours, listening to the Typhoon and talking about all the places we had visited. We had a lot more in common than I thought we would. She shared teaching tips, told me about the students and promised to help make my time in Korea as fantastic as possible. I feel very blessed! Tomorrow I head to school at 8:30 am, observe the classes and meet all of the teachers. At 3:30 I will attend my first staff meeting, complete with Soju....this should be a very interesting day!

Final Days: TB, drugtests and soju!

Today we had our teaching demonstrations! I think they went quite well, there were 9 groups each presenting a demo lesson to class of adults (many of whom pretended to be children). My group was given the topic "I have a headache" on health related issues! It was a fantastic comedy of errors complete with "ums and ehs,"fake fainting and some fantastically tacky miming on my part!

Our ridiculous slides!

Half way through the presentations our demo leader said "one of you actually has a middle school placement." Turns out that person was me! It was so difficult to make myself focus for the rest of the lesson. :)

After the teaching demos we met with representatives from the Seoul Metropolitan Office of Education and received our orientation certificates and papers saying were STD, drug and TB free. It was hysterical seeing all the sighs of relief as people opened their envelopes!

Then we went on to our closing ceremony and final dinner! I had fully intended on staying in and packing the night before...but as per usual, ended up going out with the Seoul folks. We found a tiny convenience storem bought a few bottles of beer, soju and makgeolli (Korean rice wine) and sat outside the shop drinking on their patio. It was nice and I am really happy to be going to Seoul with such an excellent group of people. Were off bright and early in the morning!