It seems to be a very common theme among foreigners in Korea, to believe that those who spend time in Itaewon, simply do not appreciate Korea or Korean culture. This is due to the influx of Western restaurants and bars and the percentage of the foreign population. I have been told on numerous occasions that places like Hongdae and Gangnam are far superior, and here is my rebuttal.
Forget the fact that I can finally find jeans that fit my butt, the fact that there is a Nike outlet, shoes in my size, a Ben's cookie tempting me so close to the station, forget it's central location, the friendly buskers, the endless rows of clothing and accessory stalls, the man playing church music with the giant 666 sign, the gold country prints, the flags, the crowded sidewalks...forget all this. But why? And should we?
Being raised in a multicultural and diverse family, both racially and religiously, has made me appreciate and even crave multiculturalism in all forms. I grew up eating food from all over the world, with a group of friends more diverse than a crayola special edition pack. When I arrived in Korea, I had my first real culture shock at seeing how homogeneous everything was. To say I stood out in my neighborhood, would be an understatement. Sure, it has it's advantages (the attention), but it can also feel a bit isolating at times. Particularly in weeks where I'm not hanging out with the other Waygook teachers.
Then, with a little help from my rugby team, I discovered Itaewon. From the second I set foot in that place, I knew I wanted to spend a considerable amount of time there. Sure, it has had it's share of bad press in the past few years (military and general drunken foreigner shenanary) but we must understand that any area so populated with people from all over the world is going to have it's conflicts and misunderstandings. In the past few months, I have made friends with some wonderful folks in the military and can honestly say that I feel bad for a reputation that quite often (unfairly) follows them wherever they go. But I digress.
Many people say that Itaewon is used as an escape for teachers who want to get away with learning minimal Korean and nothing substantial about the culture.While it is true that you will be hard pressed to find a person who cannot speak English in Itaewon, it also lends itself to an opportunity to experience a wonderful fusion of language and culture. There are a considerable amount of Koreans who spend time in Itaewon, many of whom I have befriended and learned much about. I find that they are just as eager as I am to learn about other cultures and this begins a glorious exchange. I love passing an Irish bar, followed by a Middle eastern restaurant and a Brazilian steakhouse. I feel proud when I look up at the mosque, just feet from traditional Korean dining and around the corner from an African restaurant that boasts the most delicious plantains. This mismatch, this melting pot, this collection of cultural anomalies stuck smack dab in the middle of such a homogeneous country is pure brilliance; it's beautiful even. Seeing so many unidentifiable people from all over the world sharing one space is harmonious. Meeting people from India, Pakistan, Russia, America, Japan,Korea,Egypt, Turkey, Thailand, Canada (the list goes on) is inspiring.
While Itaewon is not without it's own problems and it can be a bit strange. I am so proud to be part of that bizarre collection of people that make Itaewon just what it is.
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| Dinner at Marakech Nights |
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| BSSK get together at African Heritage Restuarant |
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| Rugby Social at Dickens |
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| Election day in Wolfhound's Irish Pub |
